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Jun 7, 2010

military blingbling


My province of Farah is an amazing place. Especially if you feel the urge to build the world’s biggest sandcastle, Farah is your number one destination for building materials..sand that is. This sandy character does not exactly make it unique in Afghanistan though: favourite building material, sand; demarcation of fields, sand; roads, sand. Add to that the fact that the rivers have run dry and from an airplane Afghanistan looks like one enormous lino-cut.

As my programme is funded by the American government, I actually do have the opportunity to admire that landscape as often as I want from one of the American Embassy airways planes: I fly for free whenever and wherever I want (wel, inside Afghanistan that is). It is said that eyebrows aren't necessarily raised when you use it for a weekend trip to the capital to catch your breath and some beers. The planes take-off from and land on militairy bases, which I enjoy in an almost infantile way. Although I'm no fan of war and couldn't recognise a Chinook helicopter if it landed on top of me, these tarmac fields full of helicopters, jets, drones and other "boy's-toys", surrounded by those same boys (and girls) in uniform awaken a certain primitive draw.

The local Forward Operating Base Farah, home to American Marines, army, airforce and the Italian army, is an important place to visit on a regular basis too. Not because of the free food or cans of cool coke, but because cooperation with the Provincial Reconstruction Team and USAID is quite important and useful in a province that does not excel in safety and security. The fact that the base has a surprisingly good atmosphere and one of my counterpart's first remarks was "if you ever need a lift in a convoi.." does add some charm.

Even more charm is oozed by the mini UN compound a live on, consisting of a whopping 3 houses and no outside space. The guesthouse is amazing though, I could actually host a party for a couple of hundred people here (if there were a hundred to invite here). I also have never in my life felt as safe as I currently do with my 9 Ghurka guards, 9 Afghan police guards and another 5 armed guys, one Ghurka is even stationed on my balcony from 7 pm every night. I do have to go back to that balcony now to work on my tan though: my white-reddish face is a security threat! no great views though: razor-wire, security zone, blast wall,tired guard..and that's just the first 7 meters.

I promise more real "content" next time!!!